Milk Money Brewing is not what it appears to be.
After tasting a Hot Pockets-inspired Tomato Pocket ($16) — precise puff pastry, stuffed with the essence of summer, topped by a tangle of charred greens — I had to confront mild-mannered chef and co-owner Matt Bumba.
“Milk Money Brewing is a project started by me, my brother and our brewer,” Bumba said. “It’s a restaurant and brewery to give people an experience unlike most suburban breweries, balancing food and beer, not just one or the other.” That’s not quite true. Tribune beer writer Josh Noel found highs and lows in their early beer. I found the food has not only surpassed the drinks, but I suspected it was the point all along.
I mean, just look at the menu: house-made sausages in corn dogs ($11), kimchi butter on a Gulf shrimp tartine ($18), mignonette granita on wood-fired oysters ($4 each). Whom does Bumba think he’s fooling?
This is a restaurant first, brewery second. Didn’t he really start more from a chef’s perspective than a brewery?
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